This guide walks you through the most effective ways to stop that from happening. We\u2019ll cover proven solutions that suit real UK homes, whether you’re converting a basement, upgrading an extension, or just trying to sort out that chilly living room floor once and for all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Is Damp Coming Through Concrete Floors the Same as Rising Damp?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIt\u2019s easy to confuse damp in floors with rising damp in walls<\/a>, they can even appear at the same time, but they\u2019re not quite the same problem. When damp comes up through a concrete slab, it usually means water from the ground is pushing up because there\u2019s no functioning DPM. Rising damp<\/a>, on the other hand, travels up walls via capillary action when the Damp Proof Course (DPC) has failed or is missing.<\/p>\n\n\n\nHere\u2019s a simple way to remember it:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- DPM (Damp Proof Membrane)<\/strong> sits under or above your floor slab to block moisture.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- DPC (Damp Proof Course)<\/strong> is a horizontal barrier built into your walls (usually brickwork) to stop moisture rising vertically.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
In some cases, damp floors can soak into the lower parts of your walls, giving the illusion of rising damp. That\u2019s why it\u2019s important to correctly identify the source before jumping into treatments, what works for one won\u2019t work for the other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Why Damp Happens in Extensions and New Builds<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nEven newer homes and extensions can suffer from floor damp. One major reason is poor or incomplete installation of the Damp Proof Membrane<\/strong> during construction. Sometimes the DPM doesn\u2019t connect properly to the DPC in the wall, leaving a vulnerable gap for moisture to travel through.<\/p>\n\n\n\nAnother common issue is floor height changes. If you\u2019ve had new screed, tiles, or insulation laid, the finished floor level may end up bridging the DPC, especially if skirting boards or plaster are affected. All of this makes it easier for ground moisture to rise and cause damp patches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Liquid Epoxy DPM for Existing Concrete Floors<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nA popular solution for older properties is applying a liquid epoxy DPM<\/strong>. This acts like a modern membrane, a tough, waterproof coating that blocks moisture rising through the slab. It\u2019s typically applied in two coats directly to the surface and can be used underneath tiles, vinyl, carpet, or engineered wood flooring.<\/p>\n\n\n\nEpoxy-based DPMs are especially useful when a physical membrane can\u2019t be easily retrofitted. They provide a barrier that bonds directly to the concrete and stop any further ingress from below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Apply a Liquid DPM<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nApplying a liquid DPM is relatively straightforward, but only if your concrete slab is dry enough to begin with. Here\u2019s a general overview of how the process works:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Clean and prep the floor<\/strong>, removing dust, debris, and any flaky material.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Patch any cracks or holes<\/strong>, moisture can find its way through even the smallest gaps.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Apply the first coat<\/strong>, using a roller or brush, ensuring even coverage.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Wait for it to dry<\/strong>, typically 6\u20138 hours, but check the product label.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Apply the second coat<\/strong>, crossing over the direction of the first for full coverage.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
While DIY kits are available, professional application ensures you get the surface prep and drying conditions right, which is crucial for long-term success.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Installing a Floor Membrane Over Concrete<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIf you don\u2019t want to deal with liquid coatings, another effective option is installing a physical floor membrane on top of the concrete slab. These membranes are usually made of studded plastic (often HDPE) and create an air gap between the slab and your new flooring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This method is ideal in retrofit situations, particularly if you\u2019re installing timber, laminate, or floating floors, and avoids disturbing the original concrete.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Damp Proof Underlay<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIf you\u2019re laying laminate, engineered wood<\/strong>, or vinyl click flooring<\/strong>, a damp proof underlay may be sufficient. These thin roll-out materials come with built-in vapour barriers and are easy to install.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThey\u2019re perfect for rooms that have minor damp issues but don\u2019t justify a full membrane system. Look for products with a high vapour resistance rating.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What Does a Slimline Membrane Cost?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nCosts will vary based on the size of the area and the type of membrane or underlay you choose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Roll-out damp proof membranes<\/strong>: \u00a36\u2013\u00a312 per m\u00b2<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Slimline underlays<\/strong> (for floating floors): \u00a33\u2013\u00a36 per m\u00b2<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Installation<\/strong> (professional): \u00a315\u2013\u00a325 per m\u00b2 depending on complexity<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
DIY is possible, but a professional install<\/a> ensures proper sealing at the edges and integration with wall detailing, which helps avoid bridging.<\/p>\n\n\n\nTanking and Damp Proofing for Garages, Sheds & Outbuildings<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nGarages, garden rooms, and older outbuildings often sit on basic concrete slabs with no insulation or DPM, especially if they were never intended as living spaces. That means moisture can rise freely, especially in unheated spaces during colder months.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you\u2019re converting one of these areas, start with either a cementitious tanking slurry<\/a><\/strong> or a surface-applied liquid membrane<\/strong> to create a waterproof base. You can then lay insulation, timber joists, or overlay systems depending on the intended finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\nConcrete Slab Issues in Outbuildings<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nOld slabs often crack or slope, and without insulation they can feel cold and clammy year-round. Tanking provides the most cost-effective fix in these situations. Just make sure any treatment you apply is compatible with the final flooring, for example, don’t use bitumen-based DPMs under vinyl or adhesives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Damp Proofing Concrete Basement Floors<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nBasements are a different beast entirely. They\u2019re below ground level, which means they’re constantly at risk of water ingress<\/a> from the surrounding soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWorth reading: How to Reduce Hydrostatic Pressure Around Your Basement<\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nDamp Proof Membrane Below Concrete Slabs<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nIf you’re renovating a basement from scratch, the best option is to install a physical DPM under the new concrete slab<\/strong>. This is only possible if you\u2019re digging out and relaying the floor, but it\u2019s the most long-term solution.<\/p>\n\n\n\nIn some cases, you might combine this with a perimeter drainage system<\/strong> to carry groundwater safely away.<\/p>\n\n\n\nInstalling a Cavity Drainage System<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nThis system works by placing a studded membrane against the basement floor and walls, allowing water to move behind it into a channel system. From there, it\u2019s pumped or drained away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It\u2019s not a DIY job, these systems must be carefully designed and installed to BS 8102 standards<\/a> (Code of Practice for Waterproofing Below Ground).<\/p>\n\n\n\nBasement Drainage Costs<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\nHere\u2019s a rough idea of what you might expect to pay:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Cavity drainage membrane system<\/strong>: \u00a350\u2013\u00a3150 per m\u00b2 (installed)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sump & pump system<\/strong>: \u00a3900\u2013\u00a33,000<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Complete waterproofing system<\/strong>: \u00a33,000\u2013\u00a315,000+ depending on size and complexity<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Remember, waterproofing your basement<\/a> is an investment, not just for comfort, but for the long-term value of your property.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWhen to Call a Damp Specialist<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nIf you\u2019re seeing persistent damp patches, warped flooring, mould at skirting level, or that unmistakable musty smell, it\u2019s time to bring in a pro. Some issues are caused by hidden leaks or construction faults that aren\u2019t obvious to the naked eye.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A qualified damp surveyor will carry out moisture testing, identify whether the problem lies in your slab, DPC, or elsewhere, and recommend the right treatment. With the right diagnosis, you\u2019ll avoid wasted money on the wrong solution, and protect your home for years to come.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How Damp 2 Dry Solutions Can Help<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nAt Damp 2 Dry Solutions (Yorkshire) Ltd<\/a><\/strong>, we\u2019ve helped thousands of homeowners across Huddersfield<\/a>, Doncaster<\/a>, Rotherham<\/a>, Beverley<\/a>, Sheffield<\/a>, Bridlington<\/a>, Wakefield<\/a>, Leeds<\/a>, Barnsley<\/a>, Bradford<\/a>, Halifax<\/a> and Batley<\/a> tackle stubborn floor damp with confidence.<\/p>\n\n\n\nWe offer:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- Certified damp surveys and moisture readings<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Floor membrane installations and tanking systems<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Basement waterproofing and drainage<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 20-Year Written Guarantees<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- IOSH Certified<\/strong><\/strong> and DPA-approved treatments<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Honest advice tailored to your home<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
If you suspect damp in your concrete floor, don\u2019t leave it to guesswork. Book a no-obligation, free* survey<\/a> or give us a ring for free expert advice<\/a>, we\u2019re here to help turn your damp house into a dry home.<\/p>\n\n\n\nFAQs \u2013 Damp Proofing Concrete Floors<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\nDo I Need a DPM Under Laminate or Vinyl Flooring?<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\nYes. These types of floors are particularly sensitive to moisture. Even small amounts can cause warping or lifting. A DPM (either liquid or underlay form) protects your new flooring and avoids expensive repairs later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What\u2019s the Difference Between a DPM and DPC?<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n\n- A DPM (Damp Proof Membrane)<\/strong> is used in floors, it\u2019s usually a plastic sheet or liquid barrier that stops ground moisture rising.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A DPC (Damp Proof Course)<\/strong> is used in walls, typically a horizontal layer (like slate, plastic, or bitumen) that stops rising damp from moving up your brickwork.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Should a DPM Be Installed Above or Below Floor Insulation?<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\nThis depends on the build-up, but generally:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n- In new builds<\/strong>, the DPM goes below the insulation and slab<\/strong> (closer to the ground).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- In retrofits<\/strong>, a DPM can go above existing concrete<\/strong>, then insulation, then flooring.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Always consult a damp specialist<\/a> or builder to ensure proper sequencing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"book](\"https:\/\/www.damp2drysolutions.co.uk\/blogs\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/water-damage-restoration-service.png\")
<\/a><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"If you\u2019ve noticed your flooring feeling cold, damp, or giving off a musty smell, especially after wet weather, you\u2019re not alone. Damp coming up through concrete floors is a surprisingly common issue across UK homes, whether you live in an older Victorian terrace or a newer build. In most cases, the trouble starts beneath your […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":963,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-960","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general"],"yoast_head":"\n
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Here\u2019s a simple way to remember it:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- DPM (Damp Proof Membrane)<\/strong> sits under or above your floor slab to block moisture.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- DPC (Damp Proof Course)<\/strong> is a horizontal barrier built into your walls (usually brickwork) to stop moisture rising vertically.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
In some cases, damp floors can soak into the lower parts of your walls, giving the illusion of rising damp. That\u2019s why it\u2019s important to correctly identify the source before jumping into treatments, what works for one won\u2019t work for the other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Why Damp Happens in Extensions and New Builds<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Even newer homes and extensions can suffer from floor damp. One major reason is poor or incomplete installation of the Damp Proof Membrane<\/strong> during construction. Sometimes the DPM doesn\u2019t connect properly to the DPC in the wall, leaving a vulnerable gap for moisture to travel through.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Another common issue is floor height changes. If you\u2019ve had new screed, tiles, or insulation laid, the finished floor level may end up bridging the DPC, especially if skirting boards or plaster are affected. All of this makes it easier for ground moisture to rise and cause damp patches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Liquid Epoxy DPM for Existing Concrete Floors<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
A popular solution for older properties is applying a liquid epoxy DPM<\/strong>. This acts like a modern membrane, a tough, waterproof coating that blocks moisture rising through the slab. It\u2019s typically applied in two coats directly to the surface and can be used underneath tiles, vinyl, carpet, or engineered wood flooring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Epoxy-based DPMs are especially useful when a physical membrane can\u2019t be easily retrofitted. They provide a barrier that bonds directly to the concrete and stop any further ingress from below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How to Apply a Liquid DPM<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Applying a liquid DPM is relatively straightforward, but only if your concrete slab is dry enough to begin with. Here\u2019s a general overview of how the process works:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Clean and prep the floor<\/strong>, removing dust, debris, and any flaky material.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Patch any cracks or holes<\/strong>, moisture can find its way through even the smallest gaps.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Apply the first coat<\/strong>, using a roller or brush, ensuring even coverage.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Wait for it to dry<\/strong>, typically 6\u20138 hours, but check the product label.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Apply the second coat<\/strong>, crossing over the direction of the first for full coverage.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
While DIY kits are available, professional application ensures you get the surface prep and drying conditions right, which is crucial for long-term success.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Installing a Floor Membrane Over Concrete<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you don\u2019t want to deal with liquid coatings, another effective option is installing a physical floor membrane on top of the concrete slab. These membranes are usually made of studded plastic (often HDPE) and create an air gap between the slab and your new flooring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This method is ideal in retrofit situations, particularly if you\u2019re installing timber, laminate, or floating floors, and avoids disturbing the original concrete.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Using Damp Proof Underlay<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you\u2019re laying laminate, engineered wood<\/strong>, or vinyl click flooring<\/strong>, a damp proof underlay may be sufficient. These thin roll-out materials come with built-in vapour barriers and are easy to install.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
They\u2019re perfect for rooms that have minor damp issues but don\u2019t justify a full membrane system. Look for products with a high vapour resistance rating.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What Does a Slimline Membrane Cost?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Costs will vary based on the size of the area and the type of membrane or underlay you choose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Roll-out damp proof membranes<\/strong>: \u00a36\u2013\u00a312 per m\u00b2<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Slimline underlays<\/strong> (for floating floors): \u00a33\u2013\u00a36 per m\u00b2<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Installation<\/strong> (professional): \u00a315\u2013\u00a325 per m\u00b2 depending on complexity<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
DIY is possible, but a professional install<\/a> ensures proper sealing at the edges and integration with wall detailing, which helps avoid bridging.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Tanking and Damp Proofing for Garages, Sheds & Outbuildings<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Garages, garden rooms, and older outbuildings often sit on basic concrete slabs with no insulation or DPM, especially if they were never intended as living spaces. That means moisture can rise freely, especially in unheated spaces during colder months.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
If you\u2019re converting one of these areas, start with either a cementitious tanking slurry<\/a><\/strong> or a surface-applied liquid membrane<\/strong> to create a waterproof base. You can then lay insulation, timber joists, or overlay systems depending on the intended finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Concrete Slab Issues in Outbuildings<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Old slabs often crack or slope, and without insulation they can feel cold and clammy year-round. Tanking provides the most cost-effective fix in these situations. Just make sure any treatment you apply is compatible with the final flooring, for example, don’t use bitumen-based DPMs under vinyl or adhesives.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Damp Proofing Concrete Basement Floors<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Basements are a different beast entirely. They\u2019re below ground level, which means they’re constantly at risk of water ingress<\/a> from the surrounding soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Worth reading: How to Reduce Hydrostatic Pressure Around Your Basement<\/a><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
Damp Proof Membrane Below Concrete Slabs<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
If you’re renovating a basement from scratch, the best option is to install a physical DPM under the new concrete slab<\/strong>. This is only possible if you\u2019re digging out and relaying the floor, but it\u2019s the most long-term solution.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In some cases, you might combine this with a perimeter drainage system<\/strong> to carry groundwater safely away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Installing a Cavity Drainage System<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
This system works by placing a studded membrane against the basement floor and walls, allowing water to move behind it into a channel system. From there, it\u2019s pumped or drained away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It\u2019s not a DIY job, these systems must be carefully designed and installed to BS 8102 standards<\/a> (Code of Practice for Waterproofing Below Ground).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Basement Drainage Costs<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Here\u2019s a rough idea of what you might expect to pay:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Cavity drainage membrane system<\/strong>: \u00a350\u2013\u00a3150 per m\u00b2 (installed)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sump & pump system<\/strong>: \u00a3900\u2013\u00a33,000<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Complete waterproofing system<\/strong>: \u00a33,000\u2013\u00a315,000+ depending on size and complexity<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Remember, waterproofing your basement<\/a> is an investment, not just for comfort, but for the long-term value of your property.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
When to Call a Damp Specialist<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
If you\u2019re seeing persistent damp patches, warped flooring, mould at skirting level, or that unmistakable musty smell, it\u2019s time to bring in a pro. Some issues are caused by hidden leaks or construction faults that aren\u2019t obvious to the naked eye.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A qualified damp surveyor will carry out moisture testing, identify whether the problem lies in your slab, DPC, or elsewhere, and recommend the right treatment. With the right diagnosis, you\u2019ll avoid wasted money on the wrong solution, and protect your home for years to come.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
How Damp 2 Dry Solutions Can Help<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n
At Damp 2 Dry Solutions (Yorkshire) Ltd<\/a><\/strong>, we\u2019ve helped thousands of homeowners across Huddersfield<\/a>, Doncaster<\/a>, Rotherham<\/a>, Beverley<\/a>, Sheffield<\/a>, Bridlington<\/a>, Wakefield<\/a>, Leeds<\/a>, Barnsley<\/a>, Bradford<\/a>, Halifax<\/a> and Batley<\/a> tackle stubborn floor damp with confidence.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We offer:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Certified damp surveys and moisture readings<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Floor membrane installations and tanking systems<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Basement waterproofing and drainage<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- 20-Year Written Guarantees<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n
- IOSH Certified<\/strong><\/strong> and DPA-approved treatments<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Honest advice tailored to your home<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
If you suspect damp in your concrete floor, don\u2019t leave it to guesswork. Book a no-obligation, free* survey<\/a> or give us a ring for free expert advice<\/a>, we\u2019re here to help turn your damp house into a dry home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
FAQs \u2013 Damp Proofing Concrete Floors<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Do I Need a DPM Under Laminate or Vinyl Flooring?<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
Yes. These types of floors are particularly sensitive to moisture. Even small amounts can cause warping or lifting. A DPM (either liquid or underlay form) protects your new flooring and avoids expensive repairs later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
What\u2019s the Difference Between a DPM and DPC?<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- A DPM (Damp Proof Membrane)<\/strong> is used in floors, it\u2019s usually a plastic sheet or liquid barrier that stops ground moisture rising.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- A DPC (Damp Proof Course)<\/strong> is used in walls, typically a horizontal layer (like slate, plastic, or bitumen) that stops rising damp from moving up your brickwork.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Should a DPM Be Installed Above or Below Floor Insulation?<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n
This depends on the build-up, but generally:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- In new builds<\/strong>, the DPM goes below the insulation and slab<\/strong> (closer to the ground).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- In retrofits<\/strong>, a DPM can go above existing concrete<\/strong>, then insulation, then flooring.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
Always consult a damp specialist<\/a> or builder to ensure proper sequencing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"If you\u2019ve noticed your flooring feeling cold, damp, or giving off a musty smell, especially after wet weather, you\u2019re not alone. Damp coming up through concrete floors is a surprisingly common issue across UK homes, whether you live in an older Victorian terrace or a newer build. In most cases, the trouble starts beneath your […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":963,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-960","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general"],"yoast_head":"\n
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- A DPC (Damp Proof Course)<\/strong> is used in walls, typically a horizontal layer (like slate, plastic, or bitumen) that stops rising damp from moving up your brickwork.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- IOSH Certified<\/strong><\/strong> and DPA-approved treatments<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sump & pump system<\/strong>: \u00a3900\u2013\u00a33,000<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Slimline underlays<\/strong> (for floating floors): \u00a33\u2013\u00a36 per m\u00b2<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Patch any cracks or holes<\/strong>, moisture can find its way through even the smallest gaps.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- DPC (Damp Proof Course)<\/strong> is a horizontal barrier built into your walls (usually brickwork) to stop moisture rising vertically.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n